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Saturday 27 June 2015

Budapest: A beguiling blend of old and new makes the Hungarian capital a perfect city break



On one side of the River Danube there’s a ­picturesque castle, gorgeous old buildings and amazing views. On the other, is a city rich with thermal baths and a booming ­nightlife...
Oh, and you’re also in the right town to find a Grand ­Budapest Hotel.
Yes, the capital of Hungary is a pleasing amalgamation of the old cities of Buda (hilly and historic) and Pest (flat and more modern) which creates a tourist-friendly destination with loads to do.
I arrived at the beginning of March, a time when the weather pretty much mirrors that in the UK – a little breezy but the sun was shining for much of our stay. Hungary does, however, boast some hot summers.
The base for my stay was at the beautiful, iconic Corinthia Hotel on the Grand Boulevard in Pest. The elegant surroundings were complete with a friendly vibe and smiling staff – and in a country so proud of its first monarch, St Stephen, the hotel is certainly fit for a king.
Just a couple of minutes walk away is the heart of Andrassy Avenue – possibly the most famous road in Pest and one-and-a-half-miles long.
It hosts high-class shops, the opera house, Liszt Square (dedicated to Franz Liszt, Hungary’s famous composer) and Heroes’ Square where you’ll find spectacular sculptures.
One of Budapest’s top attractions are its baths. And after a long day of sightseeing there was no better way to relax than in the warm, healing waters of the 102-year-old Szechenyi Medicinal Baths with 18 pools (szechenyispabaths.com, £12).
Fun and vibrant by day and romantic and relaxed in the evening, it’s the place to wind down.
Don’t miss a stop at the imposing and much-photographed Hungarian parliament building on the banks of the Danube. However, unless you have an interest in politics, the tour can be pretty long-winded (latogatokozpont.parlament.hu, £5).
Sightseeing: Aaron above the Danube
From parliament, hop on tram number two by the Danube towards the Great Market Hall. The route is rated one of the world’s best by National Geographic magazine and when you see the castle towering above, you’ll know why (daily public transport passes cost £3.50).
If at this point you’ve worked up an appetite, there are plenty of boats converted into restaurants by the bank, again offering great views.
The Great Market Hall is unmissable and a great place to buy Hungarian goods – and tuck in to some tasty snacks. A lot of national dishes use paprika so this is the place to buy it.
Close by is Vaci Utca, a modern, touristy pedestrianised shopping avenue. It’s worth a look for the famous Cafe Gerbeaud at Vorosmarty Square at the northern end.
Once you’ve ‘done’ Pest, cross the iconic Chain Bridge – designed and built by Brits and opened in 1849 – and head uphill to Buda.
The castle district offers a complete contrast with its cobbled streets, old buildings and statues – and considerable calm.
Most tourists flock to the Fisherman’s Bastion for a fabulous view across Pest. It’s especially stunning by night with the parliament beautifully illuminated.
Historic: Budapest's parliament building
For a bite to eat, Cafe Pierrot is a five-minute walk from the Bastion and boasts pictures of famous faces who have dined there.
Not in the castle district but still in Buda is the 771ft Gellert Hill, which offers a terrific view across the city. At its foot are the famous Gellert Baths and the art-nouveau Hotel Gellert.
As the sun sets, Budapest’s nightlife springs into life, and there’s plenty of it. Try the Ruin pubs in Pest (ruinpubs.com), a collection of unique drinking spots created in ‘ruined’ old houses and factories a decade ago and now popular with young people.
Each is kitted out with salvaged furniture and has a distinct ambience. Some are very lively while others are perfect for a few drinks with friends sat round a table. You could give Palinka a try, a fruit brandy made from plums, ­apricots, apples, pears or cherries.
Some types can be very tasty, but from personal experience, the ones sold in ruin pubs are not that great.
My final activity in Budapest was in complete contrast to anything else I experienced – a group ‘escape’ game, where you are locked in a room and have to solve a set of cryptic clues to get yourself out.
Budapest is known as the capital of ‘exit games’ so as an activity for people who like puzzles, games and a bit of fun, it is the perfect thing to try – and you are guided around the room and helped by an actor who plays along.
However, if like me you cannot figure out the answers to said cryptic clues, escaping can prove a little frustrating and takes some time! (exitgames.hu, from £16).
From sightseeing to drinking, relaxing to exploring, Budapest really can offer a bit of something for everyone. You might even say it’s a great escape...
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